Srinagar

Kashmir as the second half of a pilgrimage

Many travellers think of Kashmir as a separate holiday, and Vaishno Devi as a separate pilgrimage. In practice the two fit together naturally. The road north from Katra runs through the Jammu region and over the Banihal pass into the valley, and a family that has completed the climb often finds itself, a few days later, on a shikara at dawn, wrapped in a shawl, with the mountains reflected on the water. For many, that sequence of mountain faith followed by mountain beauty feels like a natural arc.

Srinagar is the centre of that arc. It is the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir, a city of lakes, gardens, wooden houses and old shrines, built on the Jhelum river in a wide valley ringed by snow-capped mountains. Almost every Kashmir circuit starts and ends here, and the city is the base for day trips to Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam. This guide covers the main sights, how many days to allow, and what to expect from food, shopping and weather.

The road from Katra, and what to expect

Srinagar lies roughly 245 kilometres from Katra, a day’s drive of about seven to eight hours on the Jammu to Srinagar national highway. The road passes Udhampur, Ramban and the Banihal pass, and crosses the Jawahar Tunnel, one of the principal links to the valley. The scenery is spectacular, with river gorges, pine forests and glimpses of snow.

The highway can be slow. Landslides, snowfall and maintenance sometimes close sections, and heavy traffic builds in some stretches. Always check current road conditions and J&K travel advisories before you book, and keep a spare day in your plan. Start early in the morning, break the journey at a decent restaurant near Ramban, and expect to arrive in Srinagar by early evening. Flying from Jammu to Srinagar is an option for those who want to save time, although schedules vary.

Dal Lake: the centre of Srinagar

Dal Lake is the heart of the city and the first image most visitors have of it. It is a large urban lake, divided by causeways, and surrounded by gardens, mosques and mountains. Its surface is dotted with houseboats, floating gardens and shikaras, the long wooden boats with canopied seats.

Shikara rides

A shikara ride is the quintessential Srinagar experience. The boatman paddles you slowly across the water while you recline on cushions, and vendors in small boats may approach selling flowers, saffron, jewellery or snacks. The best times are early morning, when the lake is calm and misty, and near sunset, when light turns the water gold. Midday rides are hotter and busier.

Agree the price and duration before you step into the boat. Government-fixed rates exist for standard rides, and your hotel can tell you the current figure. Ask what is included, and avoid being pressed into shopping stops you do not want.

The floating market

At dawn, vegetable growers paddle their boats to a spot on the lake and trade produce with buyers in other boats. This floating market is a charming sight, though it is early, typically around five or six in the morning, so you must plan for it. Go with a boatman who knows the place, and wear warm clothing.

Houseboat stays

Staying on a houseboat is a highlight for many travellers. These floating wooden houses, ornately carved inside, have bedrooms, dining rooms and verandas looking over the water. They range from basic to luxurious. The experience is atmospheric, with kahwa served at sunrise, hosts who cook Kashmiri meals and quiet evenings on the deck. The drawbacks are that rooms can be small, heating limited and mosquitoes present in warm months. Ask for details, and check reviews carefully. If you prefer hotel conveniences, you can stay in a hotel and spend an evening on a houseboat for dinner.

The Mughal Gardens

Around the lake are terraced gardens built by Mughal emperors in the seventeenth century. They are among the most beautiful sights in the valley.

• Nishat Bagh rises in twelve terraces from the lake, with fountains, chinar trees and flower beds.
• Shalimar Bagh was built by Emperor Jahangir for his queen, with a long central canal, pavilions and wide lawns.
• Chashme Shahi is smaller, built around a natural spring, and is known for its fresh water.

The gardens look their best in April and May, when flowers bloom, and in October, when chinar leaves turn red and gold. They are lovely in the late afternoon. Allow about an hour for each.

Another highlight is the Tulip Garden, which opens in spring, usually in late March or April, and showcases hundreds of thousands of tulips across terraces. It is a spectacular sight but draws large crowds in its short season.

Hari Parbat, Shankaracharya Temple and the old city

The Shankaracharya Temple sits on a hill above the city, reached by a short drive and a climb of steps. It is an ancient Shiva temple, much restored, and from its terrace you see the whole of Dal Lake and the valley beyond. The climb is manageable for most people, but security checks and rules mean you should leave phones and cameras at the entrance if instructed, and check for current access.

Hari Parbat, a fortified hill with a fort, temple and shrine, is another landmark. Access to the fort is restricted, but the hill is a symbol of the city.

The old city, around Jama Masjid, is a maze of lanes, wooden shrines and bazaars. Jama Masjid itself is a vast wooden mosque with tall pillars carved from deodar trees. Visit respectfully, dress modestly and remove shoes. Khanqah-e-Moula is another beautiful wooden shrine. Walking here gives you a sense of the city’s life, though lanes are narrow and busy.

More sights if you have an extra day

Beyond the headline attractions, Srinagar has quieter places that reward unhurried visitors. Hazratbal, a white marble mosque on the shore of Dal Lake, is one of the most revered shrines in the valley and is especially atmospheric at dusk. Pari Mahal, a terraced garden on a hillside above the lake, offers fine views and fewer visitors than the main Mughal gardens. The Botanical Garden and the Cheshma Shahi area are pleasant for strolls. Nigeen Lake, a smaller and calmer neighbour of Dal, is a peaceful alternative for a shikara ride and for houseboat stays away from the crowd.

For a taste of everyday life, spend an hour in the market areas around Lal Chowk and Residency Road, or in the lanes near the river where walnut-wood carvers and papier-mâché painters work. Watching an artisan decorate a box by hand, with a single-hair brush and gold leaf, gives meaning to the price tag of a souvenir.

Where to stay: lake, gardens or city centre

Your choice of neighbourhood shapes your trip.

• Boulevard Road and the Dal Lake shore. The most popular area, with hotels, restaurants, shops and easy access to shikaras. It can be busy and noisy.
• Nigeen Lake. Quieter, with houseboats and guest houses and a more rural feel. Good for couples and travellers who want peace.
• Rajbagh and Jawahar Nagar. Calm residential areas with comfortable mid-range hotels, a little away from the lake.
• Near the airport or highway. Convenient for early departures, but without the atmosphere.

Book well ahead for April to June and for October, which are peak months. Check the heating arrangements in winter, and ask whether a room has hot water at all hours.

Getting around the city

Taxis, autos and local cabs are the usual ways to move between sights. Prepaid taxi counters at the airport help avoid disputes. For day trips, a hired car with a driver for the day is practical and usually priced by distance. Shared vehicles and buses exist but are slower and less comfortable. Walking works well in the old city and along the lakefront.

Traffic can be heavy around Lal Chowk and on the road to the Mughal gardens in the afternoon, so build in extra time. Parking at popular sights can be limited, and drivers know the best places to wait.

Winter in Srinagar

Winter changes the valley. Dal Lake can freeze at the edges, chinar trees are bare, and snow dusts the surrounding mountains. The city grows quiet, many shops stay open and the cold is bracing. Visitors who travel in winter often come for the snow in Gulmarg, which is a short drive away, and use Srinagar as a base. Houseboats can be cold, so check for heaters and electric blankets. The traditional kangri, a small clay pot filled with embers and held under a cloak, is a Kashmiri way to keep warm, though it should be used with care.

Road and air connections can be affected by snow and fog. If you plan a winter trip, build in extra days and flexibility, and carry proper warm clothing, including thermal underwear, a heavy jacket, waterproof boots and gloves.

Food: Kashmiri flavours for vegetarians and others

Kashmiri cuisine is rich, and the best-known dishes are meat-based. Wazwan, the multi-course feast, is a famous tradition. But if you are a vegetarian or following pilgrim rules, there is plenty to enjoy. Dum aloo, baby potatoes in spiced yoghurt gravy, is a favourite. Haak, a leafy green, nadru yakhni (lotus stem in yoghurt gravy), rajma, paneer dishes and rice are common. Noon chai, a pink salted tea, and kahwa, a green tea with saffron, almonds and cardamom, are the drinks to try. Fresh bread such as girda and lavasa is sold at bakeries in the morning.

At a houseboat or hotel, tell your host in advance that you eat vegetarian, and they will prepare accordingly. Street food is delicious but may upset sensitive stomachs, so be careful in the first days.

Shopping: what to buy and how

Srinagar is famous for crafts. Pashmina and other woollen shawls, carpets, papier-mâché boxes, walnut-wood carving, saffron, dry fruit and copperware are the main items. Quality varies enormously.

• Buy from established shops with fixed prices where possible, and ask for a proper bill and a certificate of authenticity for pashmina and saffron.
• Beware of shops that pay commissions to drivers or boatmen, since prices may be inflated.
• Genuine pashmina is expensive. Be sceptical of very low prices.
• Bargain politely. It is expected in smaller shops, but not in fixed-price emporiums.
• Check packing and shipping options if you buy large items.

A three-day plan

Day one. Arrive from Katra in the evening. Check in and take an evening shikara ride if time allows. Dinner on a houseboat or at your hotel.

Day two. Wake early for the floating market or a sunrise ride. After breakfast, visit Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh, then Chashme Shahi. After lunch, go to the Shankaracharya Temple. In the evening, walk in the old city or around Lal Chowk.

Day three. Visit the old city, Jama Masjid and a few shops, then take a day trip toward Gulmarg, Sonmarg or Pahalgam, or continue your tour. See our pages on Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam for details.

Two nights is a minimum for Srinagar alone. If you plan day trips, add one night for each.

Weather and clothing

April to October is the main season. Spring brings flowers and pleasant temperatures, summer is warm but not hot, and autumn is crisp and colourful. Winters are cold, with snow and temperatures that fall below freezing. Carry layers in every season, because mornings and evenings are cool even in summer. A warm jacket, woollen cap and gloves are essential for winter travel, and a light waterproof is useful in spring and the monsoon.

Safety, advisories and responsible travel

Kashmir is a beautiful and welcoming destination, and millions of visitors come each year. Conditions on the roads and in the region can change quickly, however. Before you book, check the current J&K travel advisories and highway status, because heavy rain or snow can close the road for hours, and security situations may change. Follow instructions from local authorities and your hotel. Keep your identification with you, and register at checkpoints if asked.

Be respectful of local customs. Dress modestly, particularly at religious sites. Ask before photographing people. Support local businesses by buying from honest vendors and tipping fairly. And take your rubbish with you, since the lake and valley are fragile environments.

Tips Before You Go

• Agree the price of a shikara ride before you get in.
• Buy saffron and shawls from established shops and ask for a proper bill.
• Spring is when the tulip garden opens. Winter is cold, so pack heavy layers.
• Conditions on the Kashmir routes change quickly. Before you book, check the current J&K travel advisories and highway status, because heavy rain or snow can close the road for hours. Leave a spare day in your plan rather than a tight connection home.
• Carry cash, as cards and UPI are not accepted everywhere.
• Mobile networks in Kashmir may need specific SIM types, and some prepaid connections from outside the state do not work. Check with your provider.

Pairs Well With

• Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam, all of which are day trips from here.
• Patnitop as a stopover on the road between Katra and Srinagar.

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